Insulation in your Home- The Cold Truth

There are some misconceptions about insulation that we’ll straighten out here as well as go over a few common problem spots for drafts and share some tips to keep your home efficient.

  • How’s it work? (Not what you thought!)

  • Types of insulation

  • Hot spots for Cold (Huh?)

Insulation: How’s it work?

When you’re cold you throw on an extra shirt or double up the blanket. Makes sense. That’s not how insulation in your home works. It’s quite the opposite actually. Insulation is fluffy and it is the air pockets in that “fluff” that make it work. Whether we are talking about fiberglass insulation (traditional insulation), sprayed foam or mineral wool, they all work this way. The air pockets in the material trap the air between layers that impede heat flow.

SO WHAT!? So that means when you shove too much insulation into a space you compress those layers, eliminating those air pockets and decreasing the effectiveness of the insulation. More is not better in this case.

What’s R-Value?

R Value or “Resistance” Value is the rating system for Insulation. The higher the R value, the greater the thermal resistance and thus better insulation.

Types of Insulation- Whats the Difference?

Fiberglass insulation is a widely used material in both residential and commercial construction due to its excellent thermal performance and cost-effectiveness. Fiberglass insulation is available in various forms, including batts, rolls, and loose-fill, making it versatile for different applications and spaces. Additionally, it is non-combustible and does not absorb moisture, which helps prevent mold growth and enhances the durability of building structures.

Mineral wool insulation, also known as rock wool or stone wool, is a highly effective thermal and acoustic insulation material made from natural minerals such as basalt or diabase. It reduces noise transmission between spaces, making it a popular choice for residential and commercial buildings alike. Mineral wool is also fire-resistant, providing enhanced safety and peace of mind. Its resistance to moisture and mold makes it ideal for various climates and applications.

Spray foam insulation is comprised of a polyurethane foam & expands on application to fill gaps and create an effective air seal, providing superior insulation and energy efficiency, but it often comes with a higher price tag and requires professional installation.

  • Open cell spray foam is softer and more flexible, allowing it to expand and fill gaps effectively. It has a lower R-value per inch compared to closed cell foam, but it provides excellent sound absorption and is often used in interior walls and ceilings.

  • Closed cell spray foam, on the other hand, is denser and more rigid, offering a higher R-value, making it a better choice for areas requiring superior insulation and moisture resistance, such as exterior walls and roofs. Additionally, closed cell foam acts as a vapor barrier, which can help prevent water damage in certain applications.

Common spots for heat loss/drafts

That is certainly a beautiful picture but let’s keep the cold outside!

Common Draft Areas:

1. Windows and Doors

  • Seals and Weatherstripping: Poorly sealed windows and doors can be a major source of drafts. Regular maintenance and weatherstripping can help mitigate this issue.

  • Window Quality: Energy-efficient windows with double or triple glazing can reduce draftiness.

2. Attic Spaces

  • Insulation Gaps: Inadequate or improperly installed insulation in the attic can lead to significant heat loss.

  • Access Points: Attic hatches often remain unsealed, which can create direct pathways for drafts.

3. Basements and Crawl Spaces

  • Foundation Cracks: Cracks in a home's foundation can allow outside air to enter, contributing to drafts.

  • Ventilation: Uncontrolled ventilation in basements and crawl spaces can cause drafty conditions.

4. Plumbing Penetrations

  • Pipe Penetrations: Areas where plumbing pipes enter or exit a building can be prone to leaks and drafts if not properly sealed.

5. Electrical Outlets

  • External Walls: Electrical outlets on exterior walls can create draft spots if the area around them is not adequately insulated.

6. Ductwork

  • Leaky Ducts: Unsealed or poorly insulated ductwork can result in considerable air loss and discomfort throughout a building.

7. Fireplaces

  • Flue Dampers: An open or poorly sealed flue can allow cold air to enter a home when the fireplace is not in use.

8. Roof Access Points

  • Skylights and Roof Vents: These areas can be prone to drafts if installation is not airtight.

9. Porches and Patios

  • Open Spaces: Enclosed porches or patios often require additional insulation and sealing to prevent drafts from permeating living spaces.

HOW DO I FIX IT?

Spray Foam is #1 for small drafts!

  • If theres drafts around your windows & Doors, pull the casing (molding) and put a bead between the window frame and wall framing. Don’t overdo it, it expands!

  • If you have drafts coming in from outlets or switches, take off the wall plates, put the straw where the wires enter the box and leave a dab.

  • If your basement ceiling isn’t insulated, Insulate the first 12” of each bay around the exterior of your home at the very least. The cold creeps in at those rim joists. If you have active drafts, spray foam the crack first, then insulate and make sure u address the issue from the outside too.



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